Buttonhole-sewing machine



Jan. 12 192s.

E. J. ,RAY I BUT'IQNHOLE SEWING MACHINE 4 x 3 Original Filed June 1920fishnets-Sheet 1 E. J. RAY mrwomxom 'szwme momma Sheets-5' heat 2 ori lu Filed June 28 E. J. RAY

-BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE 6. Sheets-Sh 4 f a agr Jan. 12 1926.

- E. J.- RAY BUTTONHOLE szwnze MACHINE 6 Sheets-Sheet 55. Filed June 28,1920 thereto, Fig.

" ping the machine after Patented Jan. 12, 1926.

um'rsn EUGENE J. RAY, BEVERLY, MASSZ-r-DHUSETTS, ASSIG-NOR TO UNITEDSHOE MA- CHINERY GQRPORATIQN, GF PA'IEBSON, NEN JERSEY, A CORPORATION OFNEW JERSEY.

Application inea .Tnne 2'8, 1920, serial No. 392,208. Renewed October20, 1923.

1 0 all i from it may concern Be it known that I, EUGENE J. RAY, acitizen of the United States, residing at Beverly, in the county ofilscf: and State of liiassachus'etts, have invented certain new anduseful Improvements in Buttonholekfiewing Machines; and I do herebydeclare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of theinvention, such as will enable pothers skilled in the new which itapp'ertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to outtonhole sewing machines, and moreparticularly to machines for auton'iatically sewing a series orbuttonholes in shoe flies, gaiters or similar )ie'ces of work.

The machine in which the invention has been embodied comprises, in goe'ral, at out tonho'le making mechanism for cutting and sewing aneye-ended huttonhole, a work carrier whichis shifted after eachbuttonhol'e making cycle to space the work and re-position itin the workclamp of the 'buttonl'iol'e making mechanism, and mechanism for stopapredetermined number of buttonholes have been sewed.

One feature of the invention consists in the provision in a inacirine ofthis type of means for stopping the machine in case the thread breaks.The machine is preferably stopped at the completion of the buttonholemaking cycle during which the thread breaks so that the operator mayre-thread the machine and re-sew the rmtinished buttonhole before thespacing mechanism acts to re-position the work for the succeedingbuttonhole.

Further features or the invention which contribute to the simplicity ofthe construction and the efficiency oi its operation relate to the workspacing mechanism and to the mechanism for determining the number ofbuttonhol'es to be automatically sewed.

The invention will be readily understood from an inspection of theaccompanying drawings and the following detailed description off themechanism illustrated therein.

in the drawings Fig. 1 is a sectional side elevation showing so much ofa. buttonhole sewing machine as is necessary to illustrate the:unilication of the present invention 2 is a plan View partly in tioi'r,Fig. 3 is a similar View, some of the parts being broken away orremoved, Fig. is a detailed side elevation showing parts 01 the spacingand counting mechanisms, Fig.

5 is a sectional view on line 55, Fig. 4:, Fig. (3 a sectional view online 6-43, Fig. i, Fig. 7 is a detailed view of the mechanism forstopping the machine upon the breaking of the thread, and Fig. 8 is adetailed view showing a part oi. the mechanism for starting the machine.

In the drawings'the invention is shown emhodie'd in a machine in whichthe'buttonhole making mechanism is similar in general construction andmode of operation to that of the machine shown and described in PatentNo. 1,663,880, Ju-ne 3, 1913, and that of the maclrineshown anddescribed in my applica- 'tion No. 187,194, filed August 20, 1917. Thismechanism comprises in general a cutter 2, for cutting the buttonholeslit, a work clamp, comprising work supporting plates 4 and pivotedclamping arms 6, mounted upon a traveling clamp carriage 8, which ismoved lengthwise and laterally ot' the buttonhole, and a stitch-formingmechanism which is rotated during the sewing about the eye and about theopposite end of the buttonhole, the upper needle of which is indicatedat 10. The feed cam gear through which the various parts and mechanismsare operated or controlled in this type of buttonhole making mechanismis indicated at 12. As is usual in this type of machine the feed camgear is rotated at high sp ed prior to the beginning of the sewingoperation, to close the work clamp, operate the-cutter, and move thework clamp from cutting to sewing position, is driven at slow speed fromthe sewing shatt during the sewing, and is again driven at high speed,after the sewing is completed to move the work "clamp from sewing'tocutting position, and to open the clamp. The specific construction ofthe mechanisms for thus driving the feed cam gear, and of the mechanisms'and connections through which it controls and operates the variousparts of the buttonhole making mechanism, is not material to the presentinvention, and only that part of the mechanism which directly cooperateswith the work-spacing mechanism and with the mechanism for determiningthe number of buttonholes sewei is shown. As indicated in Figs. 1 to 3the feed cam gear engaged and driven by a worm 1.4: formed on a sleeve,one end of which is pro vided with one member of the high speed clutchit The other member of the high speed clutch is formed on the hub of agear 18 which engages a gear 20 connected with the constantly rotatingdriving pulley 22. The gear 18 is shifted to engage or disen- 9" 1c thehigh speed clutch through a clutch 1 rod 2d, the forward end of whichcarries an arm 26, engaging a groove in the hub of the gear 18, and therear end of which is provided with a rack, engaging teeth formed on theclutch shifting lever 28. The rod is forced in a direction to engage theclutch a spring 530. The clutch shiftiug lever is mounted upon the hubof a cam lever 32. the end of which .is arranged to be acted upon bycams carried by the feed cam gear and one of which is indicated at 3(Fig. The two levers are normally .ected by a spring pressed latch pin36 mounted in lever 32 and entering a hole 38 in the lever 28. A coiledspring 40, which is connected with the hub of the lever 32, and with thehead of the fixed stud 42 on which the lever is mounted tends to holdthe lever 82 in position for the pin 36 to enter the hole 38. A pin ttis mounted in the hole 38 and underlies the end of the starting lever46. This lever is mounted on a pivot stud 48 and is yieldingly connectedwith one arm of a bell crank lever 50 by a spring 52 and stud 54.

When the feed cam gear completes its rotation at the end of a buttonholemaking cycle the cam 34 acts on the cam lever 32 which, at that time, isconnected with the clutch shifting lever 28 and operates the evers todisengage the high speed clutch and thus stop the feed cam gear andconsequently the bi'ittonhole making mechanism. Vhen the gear is to bestarted at the beginning of the succeeding buttonhole making cycle thestarting lever 46 is operated to depress the pin and thus disengage thelatch pin 38 and the lever 28 that the clutch lever and clutch shiftingrod may be opt ed by the spring 3-30 to engage the high s e-e-tl clutch16. As soon as the cam lever ridzs off of the cam 34; the lever 32 ismeved with relation to the lever 28 by the spring at) to bring the pin36 again into register with the hole 38 when tl e pin enters the holeand a ain connects the two lovers K aid 28 so that during the continuedrot i or the feed earn gear the cams on the to control the o the clutchconwith the sewing shaft). the buttonhole making gain engages the lever32 5 .ie high speed clutch 16., .i .n the feed cum gear and buttoniakingmechanism. The parts remain operate the l .l clutch (and a 1e worm 'iei('OE11]')lt-il 1*11 tlEEIS 5 hole .in stopped position until thestarting lever is again operated, to initiate the succeeding buttonholemaking cycle.

The work is automatically shifted to space the buttonholes by themovement of a work carrier 56 which is mounted on the clamp carriage 8,and is automatically moved between successive buttonhole making cycles.The carrier is the same in construction as the carrier more fully shownand described in the above application, No. 187,194, and is providedwith a work supporting plate 58 on which the work is held by a series ofspring clamping lingers 60 carried by a bar (i2 which may be operated bythe operator to clamp or release the work. The work carrier is providedwith an edge gage 64 against which the edge of the work is positioned bythe operator and is also provided with an open slot 66 which registerswith the buttonhole zone of the work. The work carrier is guided duringits work spacing movements by fixed rolls 68 and 70 arranged to engageguiding slots formed on the carrier. The slots are so shaped and therolls so arranged that the work is moved by the carrier in a pathcorresponding to the curvature of the edge guide to properly locate theseries of buttonholes with relation to the edge of the work. Themechanism for advancing the work carrier to space the buttonholesincludes a rack 72 provided with an arm 74, which is connected by apivot pin With a block 76 arranged to slide within a slot 78 in thecarrier. The rack is engaged by a gear 80, which is driven from a wormwheel 82, of equal diameter. The connections between the worm wheel andgear comprise a clutch bar 84 provided at its ends with clutch facesadapted to engage a conical clutch face in the upper side of the wormwheel, and two links 86, one of which is pivoted at 88 to the gear, andthe other of which is pivoted at 90 to an arm 92 on the clutch bar. Thepivot pin which con nects the links carries aroll 94, which engages acam groove 96, which acts to vary the movement imparted to the gear inac cordanee with the path of movement of the carrier so that therequisite movements are given to the carrier to equally space thebuttonholes along the irregularly curved edge of the work. The clutchbar is forced into en gagement with the worm wheel by a clamping nut 98,the upper end of which is provided with a knurled head by vhich the nutmay be manipulated in clamping and releasing the clutch bar to permitmove ment of the work carrier into position to properly locate the firstbuttonhole in the series to be sewed.

' s thus far described the mechanism n'h which the work carrier isadvanced ionds to the mechanism more fully and described in the aboveapplica- No. 187,194. The worm wheel 82 is engaged by a worm formed on asleeve 102 which is connected with a shaft 104 by a one w'ay rollerclutch 106. The shaft is mounted in a hearing in the clamp carriage andis rotated-after each buttonhole making cycle by an intermittentlyacting mechanism mounted on a fixed part of the machine. As shown inFigs. 4 and 5 the outer end of the shaft 104 is provided with a tongue108 fitting 'with-ina groove in the end of a pinion 110 which is somounted that it is in axial a'linement with shaft- 104 when the clampcarriage is in its retracted position at the end of a bu'ttonhole makingcycle. During the buttonhole making cycle the pinion 110 is held in theposition indicated in Fig. 5 and the tongue 108mo\' es idly back andforth througi the slot in the end of the pinion during the travel of theclamp carriage. The pinion is secured on. the end of a shaft 112 and isengaged by a gear segment 114 formed -'on the upper end of a lever 116.The lever is oscillated between buttonhole making cycles by a crank 118connected with the lever by a link 120. The crank is secured "to the endof a shaft 122 which is rotated through single revolution, after eachbuttonhole making cycle, by a one-revolution Horton clutch 124' whichconnects the 'shaftwith a gear 126 engaged by the continuously rotatinggear 20. VVh'en theYcra-nk shaft 122 is rotated the segment lever 1162isadvanced and retracted and oscillates the pinion 110 and the shaft 112.During the advance of the segment lever the one-way "clut'ch 106 rotatesthe worm 100 -'so that the work carrier is advanced a step to space thework and position it in thework 'cla'mpfor thesucc'eedingbuttonholemaking "operation. During the return movement of the segment levertheone-way clutch permits the'sha'it 104 to rotate idly with relation tothe worm 100.

In order that the "movement transmitted to the work carrier may'be'varied to secure the spacing requisite for properly positioning thebuttonholes, means is provided for adjusting the pivotal connectionbetween the link and the segment lever 116. As shown in 'Figs. 1. 4 and5 the link 120 is pivotally connected to a block128 mounted in aguideway 130 in the "lever and provided with a rack 132 engagedby apinion 134. The pinion is secured on the inner end of 'a shaft 136, theouter end of which carries a dial plate 138 provided with a series 0 fholes adapted to be engaged with a locking pin 140 fixed in an arm onthe lever 116. The dial plate is held in engagement with the locking pinby a spring 142 acting upon the shaft 136 and the outer end of the shaftis provided with a knurled head 144 bywhich the shaft may be movedendwise to disenand is held against the periphery oi the-disk by aspring 152-. It is tripped to throw the spacing mechanism into operationat the end oi a 'buttonholc making cycle by a cam lug 154 on the ieedcam gear 12, which is arranged to engage "the upper end of an arm'15'6-sec'u'red to the shaft 150. The hubof'the arm is providedwith alaterally projecting stop finger 158 which is yieldingly held inengagement with a stop screw 160 by a spring 162, Figs. 8 and 6. Theshaft carriesa trip arm 164 adapted to engage a pin 1 66 on the pawl148. The trip arm is keyed to slide lengthwise on the sh-aft'so thatitfm'ay be inoved out of position to acto-n the pin 166 'when theoperation of the spacing mechanism is to be discontinued after thedesired number or buttonholes have been sewed, oi-"is to be omitted uponthe breaking 'oi-the' thread. When the machine is started the "arm 164is moved into position above the pm 166 and attlre end of eachbuttonhole H cycle is depressed by the action of cam lug 154*011 the arm15 6, and operates the awl 148 to "throw 'in"th e work spacing clutch.The finalinoverlie-ht of "the gear '1-2, as it comes into stoppingposition, carries the cam lug beyond the end of the arm 156 so that thepawl 148 is free to return to normal position andto throw out the clutchat the end of a single revolution.

After the Work carrier has been advanced to space the work at thecompletion of the buttoi'ihole making cycle the buttonhole makingmechanism is again thrown into opera-' tion and this continues until apredetermined number of buttonholes have been completed, after which themachine is stopped by rendering the spacing mechanism inactive; In theconstruction shown the mechanisms for throwing in the buttonhole makingmechanism, after the buttonholes have been spaced, and for stopping themachine at the completion of the series of buttonholes, are-operated bythe return movement of the segment lever 1160i the spacing mechanism.

The-mechanism for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive, and thusstopping the machine at the completion of the series of buttonholes,comprises a lever 168, the rear end of which is provided with a yokeenibracing the hub of the trip arm 164 and carrying 'pi'n's engaging'anannular groove ice iii.

in the hub. A coiled spring 170 acts on the lever and tends to hold thetrip arm in position to operate the stop pawl 148 which controls thespacing clutch. The lever is operated to move the trip arm into inactiveposition, as indicated in Fig. 3, by an arm 172 secured to the rear endof a controller shaft 174, the forward end of which is connected bybeveled gears 176 with a ratchet wheel 178. The ratchet wheel andcontroller shaft are advanced a step after each operation of the spacingmechanism by a pawl 180 carried on a pawl lever 182, which is connectedby a link 184 with the segment arm 116. A coiled spring 186 connected tothe shaft bearing 188 and to a disk 190, secured to the shaft, tends tohold the ratchet wheel and controller shaft in initial position with astop pin 192 on the ratchet wheel in engagement with a stationaryadjustable stop 194. Starting from initial position the controller shaftwill be advanced after each operation of the spacing mechanism until thearm 172 engages the lever 168 and shifts the trip arm 164 into inactiveposition and thus stops the machine. Reverse movementof the controllershaft under the influence of the spring 186 is prevented by a stop pawl196, which engages the teeth of the ratchet wheel 178. This pawl alsoforms one arm of a lever, the upper end of which is connected by aflexible cord 198 with the bell crank lever 50 through which thestarting lever for the high speed clutch of the buttonhole makingmechanism is operated. lVhen the ratchet wheel is advanced by the pawl180 the tooth of the wheel on which the lever 196 rides rocks the leverand thus ope-rates the starting lever 46 for the buttonhole makingmechanism.

The number of buttonholes in the series sewed will depend upon theinitial position of the controller shaft and this may be adjusted forany desired number of buttonholes by adjustment of the stop 194. Asshown in Figs. 4 and 6 the stop is formed on a sleeve 200 surrouiulingthe shaft 202 on which the ratchet wheel 178 and beveled gear 176 aresecured. This sleeve is provided with a dial plate 204, having a seriesof holes adapted to be engaged by a fixed pin 206. The sleeve is heldyieldingly in position with one of the holes in engagement with the pinby a spring 208, and the outer end of the sleeve is provided with a head210 by which the sleeve may be moved to disengage the dial from the pinand may be turned to adjust the stop 194 in accordance with the numberof buttonholes in the series to be sewed.

After a series of buttonholes have been completed the operator breaksthe connection between the work clamp and the worm wheel 82 by turningthe clamping nut 98 and then, after removing the finished piece of buttonhole.

work, and inserting a fresh piece in the carrier, positions the carrierin proper relation to the sewing mechanism for sewing the first He thenreconnects the clamp and worm wheel and after properly adjusting thespacing mechanism, if such adjustment is required in order to properlyspace the series of baittonholes so that the last buttonhole of theseries will be in the proper relation to the end of the work, he startsthe in chine by swinging the lever 196 in a direction to operate thestarting lever for the blittOilllOlQ making mechanism. By this movementof the lever 106 he disengages it from the ratchet wheel. and alsodisengages the actuating pawl 180 so that the controller shaft 174 isimmediately returned by its spring 186 to initial position determined bythe fixed step 194 and stop pin 192. The means for thus disengaging theactuating pawl comprises a pin arranged to under lie the pawl andcarried by an arm 214, projecting from the lever. 196. The lever isprovided with a projecting handle 216 by which it may be convenientlymanipulated by the operator.

The mechanism for preventing the operation of the spacing mechanism andthus stopping the machine at the end of the buttonhole cycle in whichthe thread breaks comprises mechanism for shifting the trip arm 164 intoinactive position which is controlled by the thread. As shown the lever168 is provided with a laterally projecting arm 218 connected by aflexible cord 220 with one arm of'a three-arm lever 222, Figs. 1, 2, 8and 7. The lever is forced in a direction to shift the trip intoinactive position by a spring plunger 224 and is locked in inactiveposition against the pressure of the spring by the lower end of a latchlever 226. The upper end of the latch lever forms an armature arrangedto be acted upon by an electro-magnet The magnet circuit is normallyopen and is adapted to be closed by the engagement of two contact points230 and 232 included in the circuit. The contact point 230 is carried ona slide which is mounted on guide rods 286 and 238, and is pressed in. adirection to bring the con tacts into engagement by a light spring 240.The slide is provided with a thread eye 242 through which the needlethread leads from the tension 244 to the tired thread guides 246 so thatthe thread during the normal operation of the machine acts to hold theslide in retracted position, as indicated in Fig. 7. Should the threadbreak it will no longer be held taut, or substantially taut, between thetension and the guide 246, and the slide 284 will be moved to the leftby its spring, thus bringing the contact 230 ito engagement with thecontact 232, energieing the magnet so that it will disengage the latchlever 226 from the three-arm lever iereris arranged in the 222 andpermit the spring plunger 224; to operate the lever and shift the triparm for the. spacing clutch into inactive position. In order that the.contacts 232 and 230 may not be on -aged when the. slide 23 i isrethemccl :contact is carried' on a pivoted: rn aidrwhich rests on a pinandtr'ethe horizontal arm oi a bell lei-fer 252'. The vertical arm ofthe of :1 lug 2 ion'the slide iVhen the slide 1501c; t m the leit uponthe breaking of the thread the lag rocks the bell crank lever (lia andpasses beyond the verti al arm of the 'turneclto normal position in resetting lever. When the mechanism is-reset the lug rocks the lever andlifts the contact 232 as the contact 230 is pa sing under it so that themagnet circuit is not closed in resetting the mechanisn'n in order thatthe controller shaft 174 nia; not be released and returned to initialposition when the operator starts the ma chine, after the operation ofthe spacing mechanism has been prevented by the break ing of the-thread,the'hub of the lever 196 is provided wvith a rearwardlyprojecting arm 256, the end ofwhich carries a pivoted pawl 258 heldyieldingly in position'on the arm by a spring 260. The pawl is arrangedI to engage the disk 190 on the controller shaft when the arm 196 ismoved to start the buttonhole making mechanism, and to thus limit themovement of the lever so that it willnot disengage the actuating pawl180 from the ratchet wheel 17 8. When the iforward movement of thecontroller shaft has been completed, and the series of buttonholes forwhich the mechanism is adjusted has therefore been completed, a slot 262in the disk 190 registers with the pawl 258 so that the arm 196 may bemoved sufliciently to disengage the actuating pawl 180 in starting themachine at the beginning of the next series otbuttonholes', thuspermitting the rontrr' ller shaft to return to initial position.

Dining this movementof the lever 196v the pawl passes through the slot262 and during the return movementoi the lever 196, after the controllershaft has returned to initial position, thepawl will yield as it passesthe disk 190 and then snap into normal position. The machine may beprovided with any suitable or well known form of thread cutter and}holder for severing and holding-the up per needle thread at thecompletion of each buttonhole. Such a thread cutterandholdr having theconstruction and mode of operation of the thread cutter and holder shownand described in'Patent No. 1,332,683, March 2, 1-920-is indicated at264 in'Fig. 1.

Vhile it is preferred to employ the specific construction andarrangement of parts shown and described it will be understood that thiseonstruction a ang ent is which the breakocc'ursi not-essentialtothebroader features of the; invention and may be variedor modified as founddesirable and best suited to the construction and: mode of operation ofany machine in which the invention is to be embodied. I

-What is claimed is: 4 1. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, incombination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism forrelatively feedingand moving the work to sewa seriesfof buttonholes, and means renderedactive upon the breaking or thethread to stop} the machine with theparts in predetermined relative position.

Abuttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, mechanism for relatively feeding" and inoving the work to sewseries of buttonholes, and means rendered active-upon the breaking of.the thread for stopping the machine at the end of the'buttonhole sewingcycle in A; buttonhole "sewing machine, having,

in combination, buttonhole'making mechanism, mechanism for automaticallyspacing the work to sew a. ore-determinedseries o'f bu-ttonl oles,andmeans rendered active upon the breakin' of the thread for renderingthe spacing niece anism inactive.

c 4:. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination,stitch-forming mechanism, afwork clamp, a buttonhole cutter, mechanismfor actuating these parts to cut and sew a buttonhole,mechanism vforspacing the work, mechanism for controlling the buttonhole making andspacing mechanisms to automatically "cut and sew a'pre-deter- ,minednumber of buttonholes, and'means rendered active upon the breaking" ofthe thread for rendering the spacing mechanism inactive. r

5. A'buttonhole'sewing machine, having,

in ombination,"buttonhole making mechanism, mechanism for spacing thework'at the end of the buttonhole making cycle, and

'means rendered active upon the breaking oi'the thread for rendering thespacing mechanism inactive. v

6. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of eachbuttonhole making cycle, and means for omitting the spacing at the endof a buttonhole making cycle in which the thread breaks; k

7. A buttonhole sewing mach ne, having, in combination,buttonhole makingmechanism, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by the'buttdnholemakingmechanism at the end of itscycle and acting to again start thebuttonhole making mechanism, andmeans for omitting the spacing at theend of a buttonhole making cycle in which the thread breaks.

8.- A buttonhole sewing machine, having,

in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, work spacing mechanismthrown into action by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of itscycle and acting to again start the buttonhole making mechanism, andmeans rendered active upon the breaking of the thread for preventing thethrowing in of the spacing mechanism at the end of that buttonholemaking cycle.

9. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism foreffecting a sewing operation including a plurality of stitchformingcycles, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of each sewingoperation, and means rendered active upon the breaking of the thread forrendering the spacing mechanism inactive.

10. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism foreffecting a sewing operation including a plurality of stitch-formingcycles, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of each sewingoperation, and means for omitting the spacing at the end of a sewingoperation in which the thread breaks.

11. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism foreliecting a sewing operation, including a plurality of stitch-formingcycles, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by the sewingmechanism at the end of the sewing operation and acting to again startthe sewing mechanism, and means rendered active upon the breaking of thethread for preventing the throwing in of the spacing mechanism at theend of that sewing operation.

12. A sewing machine, having, in combination, sewing mechanism foreffecting a sewing operation, including a plurality of stitchutormingcycles, mechanism for spacing the work, mechanism for stopping themachine after a pre-determined number of spacings, and means forstopping the machine an'd omitting a spacing upon the breaking of thethread.

13. A. buttonhole sewing machine, having,

in combination, buttonhole making mecha-- nism, mechanism for spacingthe work at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, mechanism forstopping the machine after a predetermined number or". spacings, andmeans for stopping the machine and omit ting a spacing upon the breakingof the thread.

14. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, a work carrier, spacing mechanism for moving thecarrier to space the buttonholes, comprising an oscillating segment,'aone-way clutch through which motion is transmitted from the segment tothe carrier, and means for varying the throw of the segment.

in combination, buttonhole making mechanism, a work carrier, spacingmechanism for moving the carrier to space the buttonholes, comprising anoscillating segment, a one-way clutch through which motion istransmitted from the se ment to the carrier, a one-revolution clutchthrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end ofthe buttonhole making cycle, a crank driven by the clutch, and a linkconnecting the crank and segment.

16. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, a work carrier, spacing mechanism for moving thecarrier to space the buttonholes, comprising an oscillating segment, aone-way clutch through which motion is transmitted from the segment tothe carrier, a one-revolution clutch thrown into operation by thebuttonhole making mechanism at the end of the buttonhole making cycle, acrank driven by the clutch, a link connecting the crank and segment, andmeans for adjusting the connection between the link and segment to varythe throw of the segment.

17. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanismrendered active at the end of each buttonhole making cycle, a countingmechanism operated from the spacing mechanism for stopping the machineafter a pre-determined number of buttonholes have been sewed, and meansfor returning the counting mechanism to initial position in starting thebuttonhole making mechanism for the initial buttonhole of the succeedingseries.

18. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, a work carrier, aone-revolution work spacing clutch thrown into operation by thebuttonhole making mechanism at the end of each but tonhole making cycle,an oscillating segment operated. by the clutch, a one-way clutch throughwhich motion is transmitted from the segment to the work carrier tospace the work, and counting mechanism operated by the segment forpreventing the throwing in of the spacing clutch at the completion ot apre-determined number of buttonholes.

19. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking-mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanism throwninto operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of eachbuttonhole making cycle, a. counting mechanism advancing a step to startthe buttonhole making mechanism at each op eration of the spacingmechanism and provided with means for preventing the thrmving in of thespacing mechanism at the com- 15, A buttonhole sewing machine, having,pletion of its advance movement. and meansfor preventing thethrorring inof the spacing mechanism upon the breaking of the thread. I

20. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, bnttonholemaking mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanism throwninto operationby the b'uttonhole making mechanismat the end of eachbuttonhole making cycle, a counting mechanism advanced a step to startthe buttonhole making mechanism at each operation of thespacingmechanism, means operated by the. final movement of the countingmechanism for preventing the throwing in of. the spacing nicchanism,andmeans for returning the counting mechanism to initial position upon theinitial. start-ingot thebnt tonhole makingmechanism.

21. ii buttonhole sewing machine, having, in coinhination, buttonholemaking-mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, work :spacing mechanismthrown into operation by,

the buttonhole: making mechanism at the end of each buttonhole makingcycle, a. counting ratchet. a spring tending to hold the ratchet ininitial position, an actuating pawl opcrated by the spacing mechanism,and means operated by the final movement of the ratchet for preventingthe throwing in of the spacing mechanism.

22. A buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination, .buttonholemaking mechanism, stop mechanism there-tor, work spacing mechanismthrown. into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end ofeach buttonhole making cycle, a counting ratchet, a spring tending tohold the ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl operated by thespacing mecnanism, a lever riding against the teeth of the ratchet, andmeans for starting the buttonhole making mechanism operated by thelever. V r

23. A buttonhole sewing n'iachine, having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechan ism, stop mechanism therefor, work spacing mechanismthrown into operation by the buttonhole making mechanism at the end ofeach lmttonhole making cycle, a counting ratchet, a sprin tending tohold the ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl oper ated by thespacing mechanism, a stop pawl lever riding against the teeth of theratchet, and means for starting the buttonhole mak ing mechanismoperated by the lever.

24:. A. buttonhole sewing machine, having. in con'ibination, buttonholemaking mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, Work spacing mechanism th owninto operation b; the buttonhole making mechanism at the end of eachbuttonhole making cycle, a counting ratchet, a spring tending to holdthe ratchet in initial position, an actuating pawl operated by thespacing mechanism,

astop pawl lever riding against the teeth 26. A. buttonnole sewingmachine having,

in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism for relativelyfeeding and moving the we k to'scn a series of buttonholes, andmeenscontrolled by the thread for stopping the machine withthe parts inpredetern'iined relative position.

27, A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-"formingmechanism, mechanism for relatively feeding and moving the work to sew aseries of buttonholes, and means controlled by the thread for stoppingthe machine at the end of a buttonhole sewing cycle.

28. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-formingmechanism to sew a buttonhole, and means controlled by the thread forstopping the machine at the end of a buttonhole cycle. 7

29. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, mechanism for spacing the work at the end of the buttonholemaking cycle, and means controlled by the thread for rendering thespacing mechanism inactive.

30. A sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism,work spacing mechanism, and means controlled by the thread for renderingthe spacing mechanism inactive. Y

31. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, work spacing mechanism thrown into action by thebuttonhole making mechanism at the end of its cycle and acting to againstart the buttonhole making mechanism, and counting mechanism actingafter a predetermined number of spacings to render the spacing mechanisminactive at th( completion of the next buttonhole making cycle.

A buttonhole se 'ing machine having, in combination, buttonhole makingmechanism, work spacing mechanism, means operated by the buttonholemaking mechanism for starting the spacing mechanism, means operated bythe spacing mechanism for starting the bnttonhole making mechanism, andcounting mechanism adjustable for different numbers of buttonholes forrendering the starting means for the spacing mechanism inactive.

33. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, work spacing mechanism, means operated by thebuttonhole making mechanism for starting the spacing mechanism at thecompletion of a buttonhole, means operated by the spacing mechanism forstarting the buttonhole making mechanism at the completion of a spacingoperation, and mechanism for rendering the starting means for thespacing mechanism inactive at the completion of a predetermined number01 buttonholes.

34. A buttonholc sewing machine having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism including a rotary feed cam, a Work carrier, andactuating mechanism for the carrier thrown into operation by a cam onthe feed cam at the completion of a buttonhole making cycle.

35. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, Work spacing mechanism, a trip for controlling thespacing mechanism operated by the buttonhole making mechanism, andmechanism for rendering the trip inactive after a predetermined numberof spacing operations.

36. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, buttonholemaking mechanism, stop mechanism therefor, Work spacing mechanismrendered active at the end of a buttonhole making cycle and adapted torestart the buttonhole making mechanism, a counting mechanism forrendering the spacing mechanism inactive after a predetermined number ofbuttonholes have been sewed, means for manually starting the but tonholemaking mechanism and for returning the counting mechanism to initialposition, and means for preventing the return of the counting mechanismin starting the buttonhole making mechanism until the predeterminednumber 01 buttonholes have been sewed.

EUGENE J. RAY.

